Propagating Monstera | In water, soil, moss & more!

If you happen to know anyone that grows a Monstera and would like to take a piece for yourself, you’re in luck. Propagating Monstera is very easy and you can grow an entirely new plant from just a little cutting. Also perfect for those looking to multiply a Monstera they already have!

Keep reading to find out everything you need to know about propagating Monstera, taking a cutting and the best methods for Monstera propagation.

Monstera houseplant cutting in water | How to propagate Monstera

Note: can’t be bothered to propagate? No one will judge. You can also just buy your plant online! Monstera deliciosa is available here and Monstera adansonii here.


Propagating Monstera step 1: Taking a Monstera cutting

Unless you’re planning on growing your new Monstera from seed, through air layering or from a pre-made cutting you bought, you’ll have to start the propagation process by making the chop. A bit nerve-wracking, I know, but you’ll be fine with these instructions.

Many plants, including the Monstera genus, are very prolific and will grow back even from a small trimming. Exactly what we need here!

Can you grow Monstera from a leaf?

A common question, as some florists sell decorative Monstera leaves. These keep for a long time and look great in bouquets or just a nice vase. That’s the good news about Monstera leaves.

The bad news is that no, you can’t grow a new Monstera from just a leaf.

OK, no leaf. What does a Monstera cutting need?

Well, you can’t propagate Monstera from just any piece of the plant, but you don’t need much. Some cuttings are literally just a few inches of stem with no leaves (referred to as a node cutting)! A leaf or two is great and will make for quicker results, but too many and they might take energy away from the rooting process.

Also make sure the cutting has a root node, which is a little bump on the stem that new growth (in this case a root) can grow from. A piece with an air root also works.

How to take your Monstera cutting

  • In order to take your cutting, you’ll need a sharp and clean knife. You can wipe it down with alcohol if you want to be sure it’s sterilized, but to be honest – I never bother. If you also garden, you could opt to use trimming shears.
  • Simply cut the stem to obtain a good piece of plant (I like to go with two leaves, a bit of stem and some nodes or air roots). The cut can be made anywhere: top, middle or bottom.
  • Voilà! You now have a cutting and you can move on to the actual propagation process.

Propagating Monstera and other houseplants involves choosing between water propagation and soil propagation. Both work perfectly fine, it just depends on your own preferences.

I’m a water propagator: I love having pretty vases with cuttings all over the house and keeping an eye on the developing roots!

Did you know? Although normal soil or water propagation are by far the most popular methods, there is a Monstera propagation method that doesn’t involve taking a cutting just yet. Scroll down to the bottom of this article to find out more!

Example of a Monstera Deliciosa cutting
Root nodes and even a baby root: perfect!

Propagating Monstera step 2: The propagation process

How to propagate Monstera in water

The easiest way to propagate a Monstera cutting is to simply place it in water. Even the first glass you find in the cupboard will do fine, although it’s a little more decorative to use a nice vase or ‘propagation station‘. As mentioned above, water propagation is not just decorative, but also comes with the added advantage of being able to see how the cutting is coming along.

Fill the glass, jar or vase with water and place, pop the cutting in there and place the whole thing in a room temperature location that gets bright but indirect light. Direct sun is too harsh on a delicate cutting! All you have to do now is wait, changing the water every few days.

When you’ll start seeing roots depends on factors like the temperature, light and the cutting itself, so give things some time. Most cuttings start their root development after one or two weeks, but it can take quite a bit longer in some cases.

You can leave your Monstera baby in water pretty much indefinitely if you like the look. Most houseplant enthusiasts prefer to pot theirs, though, which you can do once the roots seem nicely established.

Remember: Your Monstera propagation won’t be excited about being moved from water to a pot and can respond by drooping for a while. It might even shed a leaf or two during the adjustment period.

Just keep the soil lightly moist and give the plant some time. It’ll perk back up once its roots have gotten used to being in soil and there’ll be new leaves before you know it.

Monstera adansonii cutting growing in water

How to propagate Monstera in soil

Monstera propagation in soil means you skip the additional step of moving your cutting from water to soil. It does also mean you won’t be able to see what’s going on with its roots, but everyone has their preference.

Soil propagation can be slower, but it yields the same result if all goes well: a brand new Monstera plant.

  • Place your cutting in a pot with drainage holes. As discussed earlier, the soil should be able to drain excess water easily, but also stay lightly moist. An aroid soil is recommended.
  • Bonus points: dip the cutting in some rooting powder. Place the pot with the cutting in a clear plastic bag to help keep in humidity and warmth, or use a propagator.
  • Place the pot in a light and warm location and be patient. Even more patient than with water propagation, as cuttings develop their roots before they start producing leaf growth. As such, you won’t be able to tell whether your propagation has been successful until the first leaf pops up.
  • Keep in mind that the leaves on your cutting can go quite limp for a while, as they lack the ability to absorb water until their roots have established. Just keep the soil very lightly moist.
  • See a new leaf? Congratulations, you now have a brand new, functional Monstera!

Tip: Some like to give the cutting a light tug once in a while (resistance tells you that roots have grown), but it works best just to leave it alone.

How to propagate Monstera in moss, perlite or LECA

If you’ve obtained a delicate or more expensive Monstera cutting, like a variegated specimen, you can opt to propagate in sphagnum moss or pure perlite. It’s a bit more of a hassle, because not everyone has these media on hand and you do have to move the cutting to soil at a later stage, but it has a high success rate.

To propagate your Monstera in moss, you just need some sphagnum moss and a container. Lightly moisten the sphagnum moss, pop the cutting in there and then place the whole thing in a clear plastic bag to keep moisture and warmth in.

To propagate your Monstera in perlite (or LECA, which works the same), use a container without drainage holes. Fill it with your preferred material and a small layer of water at the bottom. The perlite or LECA will wick just the right amount of moisture to your cutting, without the risk of rot that you get with soil due to the presence of organic material.

With this method, too, you can opt to place the whole thing in a clear plastic bag or propagator. Some rooting powder can also prove helpful in speeding up the process.

Variegated Monstera houseplant cutting.
Variegated Monstera cutting.

The no-cutting method: Air layering Monstera

Got some time to spare? If you have a Monstera that you’re worried to chop into pieces for propagation (like an old heirloom specimen), there is a very low-risk method that you can try.

Air layering involves tricking a plant into growing roots before you actually make the cut. It’s usually used for woody plants that are difficult to root using the normal methods, but Monstera, especially Monstera deliciosa with its thicker stem, is a great candidate too.

You’ll need rooting hormone, sphagnum moss, some plastic wrap and something like rubber bands or ties. Here’s how you do it:

  • Select the stem you want to remove for propagation. Find a node right below it. This is where the roots will be growing from!
  • Apply rooting hormone on and around the node. With many plants, you’d wound this area to stimulate rooting, but with Monstera that’s really not even necessary. Sticking to just rooting hormone lowers the risk of rot and disease.
  • Give your sphagnum moss a soak and squeeze it so that it’s moist, but not dripping. Apply a ball all around the area of the node.
  • Cover the ball with plastic wrap, sealing it, and use the bands or ties to keep the whole thing in place.
  • Wait a few weeks for root growth, keeping an eye on the sphagnum to make sure it doesn’t dry out. Because you used plastic wrap, you’ll be able to see the roots start to appear in the moss.
  • Once a good root ball has formed, you can remove the wrap and moss. Pleased with what you see? Use a clean knife to make a cut just below the roots. See what we just did here? You’ve now got a pre-rooted Monstera cutting on your hands.
  • Plant the cutting in your favorite pot and soil type, placing it in a warm, high-humidity location that receives bright but indirect light. It can look a little sad at first, but because it’s already rooted, it should keep growing as usual.

Monstera deliciosa fruit | How to grow Monstera from seed

Monstera plants flower, although their inflorescence isn’t too spectacular. In fact, Monstera deliciosa actually produces fruit. And it’s edible too, with the right precautions! While unripe Monstera deliciosa fruit can cause severe irritation to the mouth, a ripe piece should taste delightfully tropical.

Now, flowers and fruit and all that mean that there should be some seed in there as well, right? Technically yes, although the chances of obtaining seed from an indoor Monstera are pretty slim. It’s already relatively uncommon to encounter one of their lily-like flowers. Do not despair, however!

Monstera deliciosa seedlings

If you’d like to try your hand at growing Monstera from seed, you still can. Seeds can actually be bought online and germinated at home. Keep in mind that there are many sellers out there that carry fake seeds advertising them as Monstera: a real Monstera seed will have the size and looks of something resembling a very ugly kernel of corn.

All these seeds need to germinate are a good soak, a little pot with sterilized soil each, and the humidity and warmth of a cling film cover. Light should be indirect with no full sun to avoid burning, or you can use an LED grow light. Once your seedlings have sprouted, you can remove the cling film.

Growing Monstera from seed is a long process and it’ll take months before you see the first split leaf appearing even in ideal conditions. However… how cool is it to be able to say you grew your own Monstera plants?! Certainly one level up from a simple old propagation, in my opinion.

Monstera deliciosa seedlings

Monstera care

Once your new Monstera is all established it should continue to grow with no problems. If this is your first plant of this genus, you might be wondering how to care for Monstera.

Take a peek at the full Monstera deliciosa care guide for everything you need to know about keeping your split leaf Philodendron healthy! For Monstera adansonii, there’s the guide to Monstera adansonii care.


If you have any more questions about propagating Monstera or want to share your own experiences with multiplying this beloved houseplant classic, don’t hesitate to leave a comment below! 🌿


Marijke Puts
About Marijke Puts
Marijke Puts has Bachelor’s Degree in Communication Science and is from The Netherlands. She has a certified master gardener and loves everything about houseplants and gardening.

59 thoughts on “Propagating Monstera | In water, soil, moss & more!”

  1. Hi! i am propagating a monsters cutting and there is a small little root that just sprouted! But the cutting now seems to be dropping, when it was not before. It is on my window sill facing west with a big oak providing shade throughout the after noon. about an hour before the sunsets, there is some direct light coming in. Is it possible it got too much light? or not getting enough. i am unsure and worried about my plant

    Reply
    • Hey! If a little root just sprouted then I honestly wouldn’t worry too much. The amount of light sounds fine as long as the water doesn’t heat up too much when the sun is on it and as long as there is no rot. It’s not unusual for the cutting to still droop despite the new root because there won’t be a lot of hair roots and the like for effective water uptake yet. Good luck 🙂

      Reply
  2. Hi. I’m looking for some information on propagating my monstera, which is a descendant from a plant my mother had more than 70 years ago. My plant is too big for indoors now. Although it only has 5 leaves, they are huge! I want to propagate it but I’m hoping to end up with a plant or plants that have smaller leaves. Is there a particular method of propagation which will lead to smaller plants more suited to indoors?

    Reply
    • Hey! That sounds like an awesome plant. If you want more manageable plants, stem-only cuttings (ie. without any leaves, also known as node cuttings) are the way to go. They start out tiny. The other thing that you can do is to simply deprive any cuttings of light a bit, they’ll start putting out smaller leaves.

      Reply
  3. Hi there! Your page is super helpful. I have a single stem monstera that I recently propagated. I chopped off the top of it and took a clipping with two leaves and a few aerial roots. I’m worried about the mother plant though – since I essentially beheaded her very close to the stem of another leaf, and since it only has one stem, I’m scared it won’t sprout new leaves. The stump end looks dried over and brown. Am I being a overly concerned plant parent for no reason, or did I do something wrong? This was my first time propagating so any advice is appreciated!

    Reply
    • Hey! It’s normal for the stump end to dry out, because new growth should sprout from the closest node, not from the cut. As long as the mama plant still has a node somewhere, you should be alright! It might even choose to produce offshoots that’ll pop up from the soil. Give her some time – Monsteras are not the quickest plants in my experience.

      Good luck, I hope mom and cutting do well this growing season 🙂

      Reply
  4. I took two cuttings from an established Monstera about 10 months ago and this spring they are sending out crazy long rat-tail looking aerial roots! Like, 6 feet long. The mother plant has no aerial roots but is in a different room with more light so may be due to amount of light they’re not getting? I understand this is normal, but wow. Will leaves eventually sprout from the roots so it’s more like a vine? Also, the husband isn’t a fan of how the roots look (rat tail all the way). If we cut the super long roots will it harm the plants? Thanks for the site and the comments section is super helpful too!

    Reply
    • Whoo! That sounds cool. Yeah, it might have something to do with the light – the plants are essentially trying to climb up to reach closer to the forest canopy, where there is naturally more light. Leaves won’t sprout from the roots, and although they do have a function, cutting them won’t do yours plants any harm. So chop ’em if you don’t like them!

      Glad you find the site helpful and yes, I’m so glad folks are participating by commenting!

      Reply
  5. What size pot should a medium sized single Monstera plant be grown in. I currently have it in about a 8-inch pot which I just repotted to bring inside for winter. About when should I expect to see new growth. Also how many plants would be too many per pot.. I’m a newbie with this family of plants…

    Help

    Reply
    • These guys don’t need huge planters since they’re a climbing species, they naturally vine up tree trunks and such. Is this a cutting that you recently potted up? It can take a few weeks to a few months to see movement, there’s really no telling. Especially with winter coming up, which is when plants significantly slow down their growth.

      As for how many would be too many per pot, it depends on a lot of factors. If you want some more specific advice, you can always post in the Houseplant Central FB group with a photo. Without it, it’s a bit hard to visualize 🙂

      Reply
  6. Hi!

    I bought a monstera from Home Depot and brought it home to find it riddled with centipedes and worms because there was so much fertilizer and was very overwatered. I took it out and repotted it because I didn’t want the bugs in my house, cleaned the roots and cut off some root rot, but then I think I overwatered it again. Again, I took out of the pot and just hacked off all of the suspicious looking roots. So now I’ve put all of the cuttings (there were several in one pot) in water by a window to hopefully propagate and start over. Will this work? I’m still getting some yellowing leaves :/

    Reply
    • Oh, ew! Sorry to hear that. It does sound like you did things correctly. Yellowing leaves are relatively normal when you’re just switching a plant over. What do the roots look like? Any growth there at all? I’d just keep a close look at them, keep the water nice and clean and remove any suspicious roots you might see.

      Good luck! I hope it works out.

      Reply
  7. How many cuttings can i plant in a pot for a beautiful dense indoor pot?
    *thank you so much for the article. I never knew they bare fruit!

    Reply
    • How much space do you have? Haha! Two or three should be more than plenty, even just a single cutting can turn into an absolute beast. Hopefully you’ll be successful enough to see one of the fruits for yourself! 🙂

      Good luck.

      Reply
  8. Hi! Your page is great. Quick qstns. Im currently propagating a monstera in water (from a larger plant that was gifted to me). What type of soil would be best after propagating a monstera? I’ve purchased some miracle gro cacti soil, but can switch up when it’s ready to go into soil if something else is better.

    Also, wif root rot is a problem in wet soil, why would it not be a problem for water propagation? I ask b/c the tip of one of my aerial roots os darkening and I cant tell if it’s supposed to be like that or not.

    Thanks!

    Reply
    • Hey! As for soil, something very light is ideal since this is an aroid. You can actually read a lot more (more than I’m able to type here, including soil info) in the full Monstera care guide. The cactus soil should actually not be bad at all, though I would personally mix in some sphagnum moss and maybe even some fine orchid bark. That’s not a must though.

      So as for root rot, the reason it’s not a problem in water, as far as I’m aware, is because soil naturally harbors much more pathogens. Water is just cleaner and therefore not much of a threat to roots! If you let the water get very dirty, though, you might get the same effect. If the aerial root doesn’t smell bad and isn’t squishy it should probably be nothing to worry about 🙂

      Best of luck, hope it works out!

      Reply
  9. Hello! I am picking up a monstera that has been growing in leca. I am a super beginner and don’t think I can handle figuring out the nutrients and ph, etc. I will be transferring to soil. Do you have any tips for me? Thanks!

    Reply
    • Hey! Good question. I wouldn’t expect problems if you move the plant to soil, actually. If anything it might look cranky for a bit but it should probably adjust without too much issue. If you’d like some more general tips on Monstera care, you could also check out the full Monstera care guide. 🙂

      Best of luck!

      Reply
  10. Hello, I have recently propagated a monstera cutting and am growing it in water. It’s been a week and one of the stems has developed an area of black scarring half way up the stem. What does this mean? Thanks in advance!

    Reply
    • Is it really like scarring or does it seem squishy and like it might be rotting? Does it smell bad? It’s hard to say without seeing it for myself. Rot seems like the most likely culprit, although if that area of the stem was damaged during the process of taking the cutting, that could also be related.

      Good luck!

      Reply
  11. Wouldn’t let me respond to you or me, but thanks! I’m hoping it will work and did use rooting hormone. I think confirmation that others might do the same is helpful. Really don’t want to lose this old lady. I may never repot her after this if she recovers!

    Reply
    • I completely understand, no one wants to lose their oldest plants and especially not an older Monstera with how spectacular they are. My fingers are also crossed it works out 🙂

      Reply
  12. HI! I had a beautiful, happy old monstera (8ish years, 6×3). Repotted last month and she was not happy. Figured she was in shock. But today I took a look at the roots since she wasn’t looking any better and there were none! All rotted away. I don’t want to cut vines to tiny pieces as I am fond of my large plant, but I did cut off several inches of each vine and placed in new pot (terra cotta instead of plastic) with cactus soil and perlite instead of miracle gro.
    Do you think this would be sufficient? I had read soil propagation for larger cuttings is better than water prop. I love this plant and really want to salvage it.

    Reply
    • Oh dear, so sorry to hear that! Miracle Gro is definitely not ideal for aroids so good call on that. I think your propagations should be able to take just fine, although it can take an annoyingly long time.

      As for the main plant, you could try removing all the rotted parts and placing her back into some nice light soil that’s been sterilized (I believe you can do this at home). Maybe dust with some rooting hormone too. I really hope it works out!

      Reply
  13. I’m new to Monstera plants. I just received a cutting that already has the roots. At this point do I place it in water for a few weeks? Or should I just move it to soil?

    Reply
  14. Hi! Can I take several cuttings on a long Monstera vine (each including a leaf and a node, or course) to propagate many new vines, or do they always have to be at the end of a vine?

    Reply
    • Nope, you can cut a vine into as many bits as you’d like as long as there’s nodes. I’ve even seen people do it with cuttings with no leaves but it’s certainly faster if there’s leaves on there. 🙂

      Reply
  15. Hi,

    About 2 weeks ago I cut my monstera for propagation and cut the stem just below the Aerial Root. It has been in water now for 2 weeks and the aerial root is growing but I am not seeing any new roots at all. I am worried that it will not grow roots as I have no nodes only an aerial root. Can you advise?

    Thanks

    Reply
    • Hey!

      Good to hear the aerial root is growing. As far as I’m aware it should be fine with just the aerial root 🙂 the node that the aerial root sprouted from can push out more roots, but I imagine that would just take a bit longer. 2 weeks is a pretty short time in houseplant propagation land!

      Good luck, hope it works out.

      Reply
  16. Hello! My Monstera was going a bit wonky so I chopped off the top 4 of the 6 leaves at the stem and submerged 2 ariel roots into the soil and it is doing plenty fine. However, will the bottom 2 leaves that are still attached to the original root system eventually sprout new growth since their top/new growth was cut? I did this about a month ago and they’re still alive, just kinda wilted and not super happy. Wondering if that bottom part is a goner or not!

    Reply
    • Hey! The bottom part should not be a goner normally, although I can imagine it being a bit cranky due to losing much of its photosynthesis ability. I’d keep nurturing it and I’d expect new growth eventually. If you’re in an area that’s still quite wintery right now then new growth might pop up once spring really sets in.

      Reply
  17. Hi there,

    I have a monstera growing that has a couple of small shoots with leaves at the base, but then has one looooong, skinny, squirrelly main stem that eventually gets fat and has several large, 18″ wide split leaves growing at the top. I did not have a post or trellis for it, so I have it hanging, and it seems very happy. The problem is that I have to move. It’s winter here so it’s cold (35°F-50°F fluctuating), and it’s so wide with lots of aerial roots, some of which I stuck into the soil and some going every which way, that are kinda brittle, that I feel like I might have to chop the whole top off so that I would be able to wrap it to protect it from the cold. Will it be ok to do this? I love it so I don’t want it to die! Frozen and beheaded sounds awful 🙁

    Reply
    • Hello,

      Sorry to hear you’re in a bit of a predicament with the Monstera. Yeah, you can chop the top off to move it if you’d like, that should definitely make it easier to protect it from the cold. In fact, you can chop it into as many pieces as you’d like to make things easier. It will obviously be a while before the pieces look like beautiful adult plants again, but they’ll get there. Good luck 🙂

      Reply
  18. What are these monstera varigated del turtle seeds I received? I was told they are fake about 50 so called seeds. Where can I purchase real varigated monstera del. white Thai or yellow color. Thank you!

    Reply
    • Hey, yeah, sadly those are fake. I mean, they are likely real plant seeds that you can sow to see what pops up (maybe it’s pretty!) but not Monstera. You can’t buy variegated Monstera seeds because the variegated Monstera varieties (I think the one you’re talking about is ‘Thai Constellation’?) can only be propagated through cuttings. As such, you can find them on Etsy, like here, but note the price. Very very expensive!

      Reply
  19. Hello, my friend recently gave me a monstera cutting that has a node and stem but no aerial root. Will it still grow and eventually form an aerial root? If so can you give me tips on how to form an aerial root?

    Reply
    • Yes, it will! You don’t really need an aerial root in this case but just a normal one, which the plant can grow from the node you metioned. The cutting in the third image in this post was rooted from a cutting with only node + stem: the node grew into a root. So just follow the rest of the instructions in the article and your cutting should take just fine. Good luck 🙂

      Reply
  20. Hi
    I have the option of purchasing a monstera albo node that has an aerial route on it, does anyone have any recommendations on properly propagating or could I just do it like I would a normal cutting?
    Thanks

    Reply
    • Ooh, exciting! From what I’ve understood you should be covering the aerial root, ie. submerging it if you’re propagating in water. And not worry too much about the existing root, you can cut it down to make it fit, since you want it to sprout new ones anyway. That’s really it though, other than that it’s just the normal stuff.

      Hope it works for you!

      Reply
  21. HI!!!
    Hope you’re fine!
    I have a monstera in flower near me. It has 4 fruits. I know they are in fruit more or less from July. But, since that time, I have searched how to get the seed from fruit and I haven’t been unable to find the correct way. I’m not interested to try test it, I’m afraid of it, but I would love try the seeds method.

    Do you know, when, how or anything of how to take the seed from the fruit? Right know, the fruit is brown, I can see the hexagons. Nothing more.

    By the other hand, I have a variegated one, from a cut. It has two nodes with leaf each. I place in water since a months maybe, and hasn’t developed roots yet. Theres a tiny spot for new leaf… I don’t know if place it in soil, and maybe e cut it and divide in two..

    Thank you very much!

    Reply
    • Hi there!

      So, I’ve never been lucky enough to get Monstera seeds from a fruit but I can tell you that it shouldn’t be too challenging to get them. As you can see when you look at a fruit it consists of a bunch of segments that look a bit like a beehive pattern (the hexagons you mention). It can be taken apart and you get a bunch of white bits that somewhat resemble soft corn kernels (which are edible and supposed to be delicious IF it’s properly ripened). Inside those are the seeds, so you have to peel off the flesh to get to them. I hope that makes any sense. As for when, I’m not sure to be fair. Most of the ones I see are green and not brown, but I’d say just open those hexagons up and see what’s inside.

      As for the cutting, I would leave it in the water. Make sure it’s in a nice warm spot. If you divide the cutting even further you’re just making it more difficult for the plant. It took mine a long time as well but I just left it in water and one day I came back from a holiday to see that roots and a new leaf had appeared! 🙂

      I hope that helps.

      Reply
    • Hey, just found my firt seed inside a deliciosa fruit! Just collect all the fruits you can find, because they stay hidden under the edible part of the fruit.

      Just wait till the fruits are very swollen, you can see that by looking if the bottom scales are getting bright green, if they are, just take them, and wait for them to open, luckily there will be seed hiding in them

      Reply
  22. Hi! I have a very old established Monstera in my garden (I only found it yesterday!) it has a very thick trunk with lots of air roots and 3 large leaves off the very top. It also had 3 new leaves at base which I have taken a cutting of with a root and a node along with the leaves (I currently have this one in water). I’m now wondering how do I take more cuttings from the plant and get it to shoot more leaves?

    Reply
    • Hey! Wow, that’s super cool. I’m not super familiar with making Monsteras produce more leaves. If if was any other case I’d just say behead it so it’ll grow multiple new heads but eh… we probably don’t want to cut off those beautiful large leaves at the top. I’m also going to assume it only has one stem now that you’ve removed those other three leaves. Difficult! New shoots can sprout from the nodes and I’m kind of wondering if maybe you could use the air layering technique (which I haven’t mentioned in the article, shame) to stimulate it to do this. It’s usually used to make a node sprout roots but I’d say it’s worth a shot maybe. This guide describes how to do it for a Monstera. Other than that, try pampering the sh*t out of that plant from now on. Maybe some nice fertilizer, the whole nine yards!

      Good luck, if you remember please update me and let me know how this worked out! I’m quite curious.

      Reply
  23. hi, I have a huge monstera and wanted to thin it out. I wiggled a little bunch out and it came out with a large root from the soil. Should I just stick it in water or do you think it will become rotten?

    Reply
  24. Hi!
    I just bought some seeds of a monstera adansonii (normally it should be the variegated version of it.. But we’ll see. How over, I’ll have to grow them.
    What do you mean with “sterilized soil”? And how do you sterilized it? Have you any more tips for me than you already gave on you post?

    Have a nice day

    Reply
    • Hi! Many plant growers simply sterilize their soil by nuking it in the microwave on a high setting for a minute or two, haha. Should work to kill pretty much anything that might harm your seedlings.

      Good luck planting 🙂 variegated plants can’t be grown from seed as far as I know but hopefully you’ll still get some nice adansonii seedlings.

      Reply
  25. Hi! I recently bought a cutting that was propagated in Water and then grown in soil for a year. Will the roots adjust to living back in a water container, or will this kill the plant? Thanks!

    Reply

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