Echeveria lola is a rosette-forming succulent with pale gray-green to lilac foliage. It is a hybrid of Echeveria lilacina and Echeveria derenbergii, both native to arid and semi-arid regions in Central America. The Lola succulent grows best outdoors in warm climates but can also be cultivated as a houseplant.
Its leaves are spoon-shaped with a pointed tip and protective wax coating. Pink or orange bell-shaped flowers grow on a long stalk in spring or early summer.
|Scientific Name||Echeveria lola|
|Common Names||Lola Succulent, Lola|
|Plant Type||Hybrid succulent, perennial|
|Origin||Mexico and Central America|
|Size||Up to 4-6” tall, 6” wide|
|USDA Hardiness Zones||9-11|
|Propagation Methods||Offsets, leaf cuttings, stem, seed|
|Climate||Arid to semi-arid|
|Soil Type||Well-draining, sandy|
|Sun Exposure||Full sun to partial shade|
Echeveria lola requires at least 6 hours of bright light a day but requires sun protection in extreme heat. In hot climates, choose a position outdoors that receives morning sun and afternoon shade. Move container plants to a sheltered location during heat waves.
Lola succulents will not grow as well indoors. Place next to a south-facing window and move outside for the summer. Consider using a grow light during darker months. Insufficient light will cause leggy stems, stunted growth, and dull coloring.
Echeveria lola requires well-draining soil. To grow in containers, mix two parts succulent potting mix with one part perlite and one part coarse sand. Avoid planting in heavy clay outdoors. Lola succulents grow well in containers, raised beds, and rock gardens.
Allow the soil to dry completely between waterings. Check that the soil is dry to at least 1 inch deep and water thoroughly until excess drains away. Avoid waterlogged conditions that can cause root rot. Echeveria lola may only need watering every 2 to 3 weeks during the growing season. Water less frequently in the winter.
Tip: Larger pots are more water-retentive. Plant the Lola succulent in a pot no more than 1.5 times its diameter to avoid overly wet conditions.
Echeveria lola grows best in dry conditions. Most indoor environments provide adequate humidity. Avoid placing in a humid location such as a bathroom. Ensure good spacing between plants to increase ventilation.
Lola succulents are adapted to grow in nutrient-poor environments and do not require frequent fertilizing. If grown in a container, apply a balanced, diluted fertilizer every 4 to 6 weeks during the growing season in spring and summer.
Echeveria lola does not require frequent pruning. Occasional pruning will help to maintain the plant’s shape and appearance. Remove dead or damaged leaves and spent flower stalks. Cut back leggy growth and propagate cuttings to create new, compact plants.
Mature Lola succulents will flower once during the growing season in spring and summer. The flowers last for several weeks to a couple of months.
- Provide adequate sunlight.
- Avoid using a high-nitrogen fertilizer that will encourage foliage growth rather than flowering. Use a diluted, balanced fertilizer.
Echeveria Lola Propagation
Echeveria lola is best propagated by leaf and stem cuttings. Propagating offsets is also possible although it does not produce as many pups as other succulent species. Growing from seed is a slow process and less common. Propagate in the spring or summer when the plant is actively growing.
Lola is one of the Echeveria species that is receptive to leaf propagation. Choose leaves from a mature plant that is around 4 inches in diameter.
- Select a large, healthy leaf.
- Gently pull it away from the parent plant. Take care to remove the entire leaf – broken leaves are unlikely to propagate successfully.
- Let the leaf dry for a few days.
- Lay on a well-draining, lightly moist substrate.
- Place in bright indirect light.
- Roots should develop in 1 to 2 weeks followed by a small rosette in 3 to 8 weeks.
Tip: Propagate 2 to 3 leaves at once to increase chances of success. Avoid removing too many leaves that can cause the plant stress.
Stem cuttings are a good propagation method for leggy or etiolated Lola succulents.
- Use a clean, sharp knife or pair of scissors to cut a section of stem 2 to 3 inches long, just below a leaf node. The cut section will include the rosette head.
- Remove leaves from the lower part of the cut stem.
- Let the cutting dry for a few days.
- Plant into a well-draining substrate and water lightly.
- Place in bright indirect light.
- Roots should develop in 1 to 2 months.
- Cut back the stem of the parent plant to 2 to 3 inches above the base. New offsets will emerge from the severed plant within several weeks.
Echeveria lola will not produce many offsets (pups) – approximately three each year.
- Select healthy offsets that have developed a few leaves.
- Hold the offset by the stem and gently pull to separate from the parent plant.
- Allow the cut end of the offset to dry for a few days
- Plant in a well-draining substrate and water lightly.
- Place in bright light but avoid intense sunlight. Offsets can take 4 to 6 weeks to establish.
Repot Echeveria lola in the spring every 2 to 3 years or when it is root bound. With taller plants, take care not to damage the stem or foliage. Plant in a slightly larger pot with good drainage and fill with fresh substrate. Avoid watering for a few days after repotting to allow the plant to settle.
In USDA zones 9-11 Echeveria lola can grow outside all year. In colder climates, plant in containers and bring to a warmer location for the winter. Lola succulents continue to require several hours of bright light a day throughout the winter. Reduce watering frequency during winter dormancy.
- Swollen, translucent, or yellow leaves: Caused by overwatering. Let the soil dry out completely. In the case of root rot, replant in fresh substrate.
- Flattened, shriveled, or dry leaves: Caused by underwatering. Check soil moisture and water thoroughly. Remove dead leaves.
- Brown, yellow, or white patches on the leaves: Caused by harsh sunlight. Sunburn damage is irreversible. Provide shelter in extreme heat to prevent further damage.
- Leggy stems and etiolated growth: Caused by inadequate light. Place in a bright location, ideally outdoors. Consider propagating by stem cuttings to regrow as compact plants.
Echeveria lola is susceptible to mealy bugs, particularly if there is excessive moisture. Use a Q-tip soaked in rubbing alcohol to remove infestations. Spray with a mild insecticidal soap and control with neem oil.
Like many succulents, Echeveria lola is sensitive to fungal problems caused by careless watering or wet conditions. Plant in a well-draining substrate and allow soil to dry in between watering to prevent root rot. Provide adequate ventilation and avoid overhead watering.