Fiddle leaf figs have a reputation for being dramatic, and after living with one for a few years, I understand why. Mine didn’t drop leaves all at once or after one big mistake. It happened gradually, one leaf at a time, until I realized something was clearly wrong.
What surprised me most was that nothing felt obviously wrong. The light seemed fine. I was watering regularly. The plant looked good… until it didn’t.
Here’s what I learned from watching my fiddle leaf fig lose leaves and how I finally stopped it.
1. I moved it more than I realized
This was the trigger I underestimated the most.
Fiddle leaf figs hate change.
What caused the problem:
- Moving it to a “better-looking” corner
- Shifting it closer to the window in winter
- Rotating it too often
What happened:
- Older, lower leaves dropped first
- The plant stalled instead of pushing new growth
What fixed it:
- Choosing one bright spot and committing to it
- Matching light, temperature, and airflow as closely as possible if I had to move it
- Leaving it alone once placed
Some leaf drop after bringing a plant home is normal. Ongoing leaf drop usually means too much change.
2. I watered on instinct instead of checking the soil
I thought I was being careful. I wasn’t.
Watering mistakes show up fast on fiddle leaf figs.
Signs I noticed:
- Yellow leaves before dropping = too much water
- Brown, crispy edges = too little water
What I do now:
- Check the top 1–2 inches of soil before watering
- Water thoroughly, then let excess drain
- Water less in winter, more during active growth
The goal is lightly moist soil, never soggy and never bone-dry.
3. I ignored pests because the plant lived indoors
This was a costly assumption.
Indoor plants absolutely get pests.
What caused leaf drop:
- Spider mites feeding unnoticed
- Scale insects hiding along stems
- Stress compounding existing issues
What helped:
- Inspecting leaves (especially undersides) when watering
- Wiping leaves regularly to remove dust and pests
- Treating early with neem oil or insecticidal soap
- Isolating the plant if pests showed up
Leaf drop without obvious watering or light issues often points to pests.
4. The light was close, but not correct
Fiddle leaf figs are picky about light.
What didn’t work:
- Low light corners that “looked cozy”
- Harsh direct afternoon sun
- Sudden light changes
What worked:
- Bright, indirect light
- A few feet back from a sunny window
- Sheer curtains to soften intense sun
Too little light causes slow decline. Too much burns leaves. Both lead to leaf drop.
5. The roots ran out of space
Eventually, the pot became part of the problem.
Signs I missed:
- Water running straight through the pot
- Soil drying too fast
- Roots visible through drainage holes
What I did:
- Repotted into a container 2–4 inches larger
- Used fresh, well-draining soil
- Avoided fertilizing for a few weeks after repotting
Repotting can cause temporary leaf drop, but long-term it stabilizes the plant.
6. Old soil caused problems even before roots were crowded
This one surprised me.
What old soil does:
- Compacts over time
- Holds water unevenly
- Loses nutrients
What helped:
- Refreshing soil every couple of years
- Loosening roots gently during repotting
- Letting the plant settle before feeding again
Fresh soil alone improved water absorption and overall leaf health.
What I do differently now
My fiddle leaf fig care is simpler than before:
- I stop moving it
- I water based on soil, not schedule
- I prioritize stable light
- I inspect leaves regularly
- I repot before problems escalate
Fiddle leaf figs aren’t fragile. They’re just honest. When something’s off, they show it through leaf drop. Once I started listening instead of guessing, the leaves stopped falling.
